Frequently Asked Questions

What should I feed my kitten or cat?

Once weaned, your kitten is dependent on you to provide a diet that is complete and balanced for its proper growth and development, and for the maintenance of its health as an adult. Premium foods made from high quality ingredients are designed to consistently provide a complete and balanced diet for all life stages of your cat, depending on age, breed, level of activity, pregnancy and health. Kitten or growth, adult, senior and light formulas are available. You can feed a mixture of canned and dry food, although dry biscuits will help maintain healthy gums and teeth. A complete diet means that supplements are not required. Table scraps, all-meat diets and dog food are not adequate for the long-term health of your cat.

When should I have my kitten desexed?

De-sexing of both males and females is recommended before the onset of puberty, generally around 5-6 months of age. Some vets will recommend earlier de-sexing from 12-16 weeks of age. It is best to ask your own vet and be guided by their preference.

Spaying of female cats will prevent unwanted pregnancies and the annoying attention of roaming tomcats. Spaying at a young age (before their first season) will prevent mammary tumours (breast cancer) and pyometra (infection of the uterus which is often a surgical emergency).

Neutering or castration of males before puberty will decrease the problems of aggression, urine spraying, fighting and the tendency to roam (decreasing the risk of being lost or hit by a car). Medically, castrated cats cannot develop testicular cancer. Your vet will be able to give you the best advice on what age your kitten should be de-sexed.

What vaccines does my kitten or cat need and how often?

Vaccination is cruical to protect your kitten or cat against viral disease. Vaccinating your cat stimulates its immune system to produce antibodies against the virus, preventing it from causing disease. There are 3 major cat diseases caused by viruses in Australia that are highly infectious and cause serious illness, even death:

  • Feline Infectious Enteritis (Feline Panleucopenia or Cat Distemper)
  • Feline Respiratory Disease (‘Cat Flu’)
  • Feline Leukaemia Virus

Another common respiratory infectionfor which a vaccine ha only recently been developed is Feline Chlamydia. This disease is principally seen as conjunctivits in young kittens aged 5-9 months. Kittens are vaccinated at approximately monthly intervals from 6-8 weeks of age until 16-18 weeks of age, and then vaccination is annual. Kittens are given these boosters because the antibodies they got from their mother actually interfere with the effectiveness of the vaccine. Since kittens lose these antibodies at different rates, we give 2 vaccinations to ensure all kittens will develop sufficient levels of antibodies to protect them during their first year of life. Vaccination programs may vary depending on risk factors, the age of first vaccination, and the type of vaccine used. So be guided by your veterinarian’s advice for your situation.

What is microchipping? Does my cat need a microchip?

Microchipping is now compulsary for both cats and dogs as a permanent and safe form of identification. Unfortunately, many famliy pets are euthanased every day because they cannot be identified. Microchips cannot be altered and do not fade over time, whereas tags and collars can easily be lost. The microchip is injected under the skin between the shoulder blades and remains there for life, ready to be identified by a special scanner and your pet promptly returned to you if lost. Ask your vet for more information on microchipping and the requirements in your area.

Can I give my cat a bath?

Giving your cat a bath can be a difficult procedure, with some cats becomming very distressed or even aggressive. Bathing in this case may not be appropriate unless the cat has a skin condition that requires treatment with medicated shampoo. Consider a professional groomer or your vet for assistance. Some cats allow and enjoy regular grooming, which is important for good skin and coat condition and general health. Even though cats groom themselves by licking and cleaning, they still need regular brushing and combing to remove loose hair, prevent matting and keep the skin free of diseases and parasies, such as fleas. Many cats, especially those with short coats, rarely require a bath. Longhaired cats, those that are unable to groom themselves sufficiently for various reasons or those that have rolled in something unpleasant may require frequent bathing. Over frequent bathing though, or use of innapropriate products can lead to dry, itchy skin and a dull coat.

How often should I worm my cat?

Intestinal worms such as tapeworm and roundworm are a common cause of diease in cats, especially kittens. Since roundworm can affect humans, particularly children, kittens need to be wormed every 2 weeks until 12 weeks of age, then monthly until 6 months of age and then every 3 months from then on. Regular worming is essential – while treatment kills worms present in the intestine at the time, re-infections can occur from other pets and the environment. Once is not enough.

I think my cat has fleas, what should I do?

Your cat may have fleas, even if you can’t see them. Fleas can build up rapidly to plague-like proportions under the right conditions. Adult fleas live and feed on your pet but 95% of the flea population live as eggs, larvae and pupae in the dirt, carpet, bedding and cracks and crevices of your home and jump on your pet to feed on their blood. Fleas can cause itching, scratching, skin allergies, dermatitis, anaemia and transit tapeworms. They can bite humans as well. The only effective way to get rid of fleas is to start a flea control program, both on and off your pet.

All fleas must be removed from the cat and its environment, including other household pets. There are many safe and effective flea products available for killing fleas on your dog and cat (also for puppies and kittens), and for preventing fleas reinfesting them. Your vet will be able to recommend the best product for your pet.

Then you need to kill fleas and the other stages of the flea life cycle in the environment. This means flea-bombing areas in the house that the cat can access, treating sleeping areas, baskets, or bedding and identifying outdoor areas where fleas may exist. This may man blocking off access to under the house, and using outdoor flea products in places like sandpits or favourite resting areas. Don’t forget the car if you travel with your pet!

What if my cat won't use it's litter tray?

Many medical diseases can cause a cat to urinate or defecate inappropriately outside the litter tray, so a veterinary exam is required to differentiate these problems from behavioural problems. For example, it is common for cats with cystitis to urinate small amounts in many different areas of the house, also diseases that make cats drink more will mean they need to urinate more, and if the litter tray is already soiled it will seek other areas to urinate. Sometimes older cats with arthritis may find it difficult to get in and out of a tray with high sides, or to negotiate stairs to the litter tray. Stress or anxiety may be a contributing factor, such as moving house, other cats in the house or a new family member. The type of box, the type of litter, its location, and how often and with what it is cleaned with are all factors influencing the cat’s decision to urinate elsewhere. Here are a few ideas to help retrain your cat to use the litter tray:

  • Location. If there is one particular area the cat is using, put the litter tray there and gradually move it to the location you want the tray to be. Move it about 5cm a day
  • Litter tray. The tray itself, the type of litter, frequency of cleaning and cleaning agents (soapy water is sufficient)
  • Decrease the attractiveness of the area the cat is using by cleaning it with and odour neutraliser
  • Feed your cat in the area or put their sleeping basket in the area
  • Deny access to the problem area

See your vet if house soiling remains a problem.

How can I stop my cat spraying in the house?

Spraying behaviour is when cats mark territory by urinating small amounts on (usually) vertical surfaces. The act of spraying involves that cat backing up to a surface, raising and quivering its tail, and treading with its back feet as a small amount of urine is directed backwards. Spraying is usually associated with territorial or competitive behaviour, especially in male entire cats. The presence of other cats around the house is a common cause of stress in cats, and may lead to the marking behaviour of spraying. Check with your vet first to rule out any medical problems. If the problem is behavioural your vet may prescribe medication to decrease anxiety or a pheromone spray that helps prevent and stop urine making, and also settles and calms cats in unknown or stressful environments. Castrating male cats at an early age is the best way of preventing male usine spraying. Keep litter trays clean (using soapy water) and clean any urine marked areas.

How can I stop my cat spraying in the house?

Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD) includes disorders of the bladder and urethra. The syndrome has several causes, including crystals that form in the urine and which irritate the bladder wall, bladder stones, bacterial infection, tumours and unknown causes (idiopathic). Most crystals in cats are known as struvite crystals. Diet is thought to play a role in the development of struvite crystals, especially the levels of magnesium, calcium and phosphorus. The pH of the urine is important, as is the amount and frequency of unrination. Overweight, inactive cats that tend to urinate infrequently are predisposed to FLUTD, as are cats that have lower water consumption. Stress may also contribute to the development of the clinical signs of urinary tract disease.

Signs include blood in the urine, straining to urinate, urinating small amounts frequently, inappropriate urination often in the bath or sink, or inability to urinate due to blockage. If this is not unblocked, signs of vomiting, anorexia, depression and colapse will occur, followed by death within a few days. If your cat shows any of these signs you should take your cat to the vet immediately for prompt treatment.

When does my cat begin heat cycles and how can I tell?

female cats (queens) reach puberty and have their first heat cycle between 4 and 12 months of age. After this they usually cycle every 3-5 weeks from late winter to late summer, although there are variations in individual cats. After pregnancy, the cat will ‘come on heat’ once the kittens are weaned. Heat cycles last around 7 days, sometimes longer, and the cat becomes very vocal, ‘calling’ constantly, arch their back when stroked, raise their tail and often tread with their hind legs. Vulval swelling and discharges are often not noticeable. Spaying your cat at a young age will prevent this behaviour, and also unwanted pregnancies, breast cancer and infections of the uterus.

Why is my cat scratching at its ears all the time?

Any ear problem can cause affected cats to scratch or paw at their ears or shake their heads. Foreign objects in the ear, allergies, ear mites, certain skin conditions and infectionswith bacteria, fungi and yeasts can all cause ear disease. Check your cat’s ears regularly and if you notice and discharge, unpleasant smell, redness, swelling, lumps or pain you should visit your veterinarian immediately. A special tool (an otoscope) is required to look down the ear canal to diagnose the problem correctly and prompt treatment will ensure the problem doesn’t become more serious. Regular cleaning of your cat’s ears at home with an ear cleaner provided by your vet will help reduce the liklihood of ear infections and excess waxy build up.

Why does my cat have bad breath?

Dental disease is one of the most common problems affecting dogs and cats today. In humans, tartar builds up if we do not remove it by brushing. Likewise in animals. tartar builds up if it id not removed by chewing on raw bones or other gnawing toys, or by brushing. tartar then develops into calculus, which is visible hard, yellowy, mineral build up. The the gums recede from around the teeth, and other supporting structures for the teeth are weakened, leading to tooth infections, tooth loss and bad breath. This process is called peridontal disease. Apart from tooth problems, peridontal disease can also affect general health as bacteria are released into the bloodstream through the inflamed gums and can lodge in places like the kidneys and heart valves, causing problems in these sites. Therefore, mouth health is important for your pet’s overall health and longevity. If there is a significant tartar build up or inflammed gums (gingivitis), your cat will need ultrasonic scaling by your vet, which needs to be performed under an anaesthetic.

Can I brush my cats teeth?

It is a good idea to incorporate brushing your cat’s teeth into his or her regular grooming program. Apart from tooth problems, dental disease can also affect general health as bacteria are released into the bloodstream through the inflamed gums and can lodge in places like the kidneys and heart valves, causing problems in these sites. There are flavoured toothpastes containing enzymes that help break down plaque and kill bacteria, although the mechanical removal of tartar is the aim. Do not use human toothpastes, sa these are not designed to be swallowed and can irritate the stomach if ingested. There are also various gels and liquids that contain the same sort of ingredients, and are an alternative if your pet disagrees with having its teeth brushed. Again, it is much easier to train your dog or cat to allow tooth brushing from an early age, rewarding for good behaviour. You can use a pet toothbrush or a finger toothbrush. You only need to clean the outside surface of the teeth, concentrating on the gum margin.

How do I clean my cat's ears?

Checking your cat’s ears regularly is an important part of the grooming routine. If your cat’s ears aapear dirty or waxy then it is time for a clean. If you notice and discharge, unpleasant smell, redness, pain, swelling, excess scratching or rubbing of the ears it may indicate an ear infection or other abnormality and you should consult your veterinarian straight away. Ears can be simply cleaned by using an ear cleaning solution provided by your vet. Ear cleaners remove excess moisture, wax and debris from the outer ear canal. Dribble a few drops of the appropriate ear cleaner into the ear canal, and massage gently at the base of the ear (you will hear a squelching sound as you do so) to work in the solution. Stop if this appears to be painful to your pet and consult your vet. Repeat with the other ear. Use cotton wool to wipe away any excess solution, and to clean out any wax or debris. Use your forefinger and only clean as far as it will naturally reach to avoid hurting the eardrum. Never use cutton buds or poke anything in to the ear as you can damage the sensitive lining of the ear canal, or worse, perforate the eardrum.

Should I clean my cat's eyes?

Cats and dogs accumulate small amounts of secretions and debris at the inside corners of their eyes, just like ‘sleep’ in humans. These can be wiped away gently woth a damp cotton ball, being careful no to touch or rub the eyeball. Some breeds tend to have more discharges and staining of the hair at the eyelid corners. Products are available to help reduce this discolouration, especially in light-coloured cats, and any long facial hair can be carefully trimmed to prevent irritaion of the eyes. If the eyes are weeping excessively you should contact your vet – this could be due to conjuncitvitis, a serious ulcer or abnormalities of the tear duct. If a foreign body such as a grass seed is present your cat may blink excessively and the lidsd will swell. Symptoms like these or any suspected eye problem should be treated as an emergency to avoid serious complications and, at worst, loss of the eye.

How can I stop my cat scratching the furniture?

Cats naturally scratch objects to shorten and condition claws, to mark their territory and to stretch. A lot of cats that have access to outside find their preferred scratching are on a tree or fence, but indoor cats need to find something to scratch, and if a substitute is not available, that will most likely be your new sofa. Teach your kitten to use a scratching post and to play with toys to redirect this behaviour from your furniture and from you. Do not use your hands in a game as this encourages your cat to attack your hand, and is difficult behaviour to stop once the cat is fully grown. You can also use positive reinforcement in the form of food treats, praise and a cuddle when your kitten uses the post or plays with its toys.

Place the scratching post in a prominent area until the behaviour is established, and then you can move it to somewhere less obvious. Indoor cats often need more than one post and cats have varying preferences for the material they like to scratch – such as tightly woven material, hessian, sisal, or a more loosely woven material where the claws can hook and tear during scratching. Most posts are upright, and need to be taller than your cat in full extension, although some are wall or door-mounted. Providing a play area incorporating the post will encourage your cat as well. There are many play centre-type structures with dangling toys, toys on springs, and even multilayered cubbyholes. If your cat continues to prefer the sofa to its hight-tech pole and play centre, you may need to limit its exposure to those areas, discourage the behaviour by covering the area with aluminium foil or double-sided sticky tape, or use remote punishment. Never direclty punish your cat as this will cause fear or aggression towards the owners, and at best, that cat will only learn to stop the scratching while the owner is around.

How do I train my kitten to use a litter tray?

By about 1 month of age, kittens toilet by themselves, following their mother’s example by digging in loose material (litter or soil), so they tend to use litter trays once in their new environment without much training by the owner. Kittens tend to go to the toilet after eating, after they wake and after they play. Supervise your kitten at these times to ensure use of the litter tray. You may need to confine him to a small area containing the litter tray if you are unable to supervise.

Use a litter tray with short sides initially and keep it as clean as possible. One method is to line the tray with newspaper and provide a cupful of litter in which to eliminate, then the whole contents can be emptied every time it is used. Clumping types of litter allow you to remove small amounts daily. Clean the tray using soapy water and rinse well; strong disinfectant smells may discourage the kitten.

Place the litter tray in a private, quiet environment. Some cats have preferences for the location of the litter tray and you can test this by placing several litter trays in different locations, and see which one is used more frequently. If you are away for long periods, it is a good idea to use more than one so that if one is soiled, your cat can always use the other. Do not place these trays next to each other. In multiple cat households, it is recommended to use one more litter tray than there are cats. Some cats have preferences for the type of litter, and you can determine this by offering a few litter trays side by side containing different types of litter, to see if he prefers a particular type.

Dr Sarah McCabe - BVSc

Veterinarian

Sarah graduated from James Cook University in 2023. Sarah’s enthusiasm for animals knows no bounds, extending from small domestic to large farming animals to the intriguing world of exotics.

This diverse interest certainly keeps things lively and engaging. Outside of her veterinary duties, Sarah shares her home with two beloved cats, Cricket and Remmy, and a golden retriever named Chester.

Ashleigh Hendersen

Ashleigh Hendersen

Veterinary Nurse

Ash is one of our multi-skilled nurses, with a love for anything from horses to small animals. She enjoys the amazing variety of patients in our mixed practice clinics, and goes from anaesthetising a cat for surgery to wrangling a lame goat without skipping a beat.

She joined us in 2017 with a wealth of knowledge, having worked for Veterinary Specialist Services as an oncology nurse. Her dogs (Reeva and Ralph) and horses (Holly and Dolly) keep her busy outside of work.

Andrew Marland

Dr Andrew Marland     BVSc (hons)

Practice Principal

Growing up on a local cattle property Andrew developed a love of animals and desire to become a veterinarian at an early age. After graduating in 2000 he entered mixed animal practice in western Queensland before working in the United Kingdom for 2 years.

Andrew is an Australian Cattle Vets accredited Bull tester and National Pregnancy Testing accredited examiner. Although spending much of his time working with cattle and horses Andrew enjoys all challenges of mixed animal practice.

Susan Carroll

Dr Susan Carroll     BVSc (hons)

Senior Veterinary Associate

Susan joined Vet Cross in Bundaberg in 2004. After graduating in 1998 Susan started her veterinary career in a country practice in regional Queensland later travelling overseas. After the birth of her 2 children she has continued studies and has now completed a course with the Centre for Veterinary Education in animal ultrasonography.

Kate Schroeder

Dr Kate Schroeder     BVSc (hons)

Veterinarian

Kate grew up in Bundaberg and studied at the University of Queensland, Gatton. Kate loves all aspects of mixed practice, in particular equine medicine & surgery. She has a passion for horse training, which comes in handy with her more fractious equine patients.

She enjoys spending time with her gorgeous Labrador, Walter, her many horses and accidentally-adopted cat, Gizmo.

Meghan Schibrowski

Dr Meghan Schibrowski     BVSc PhD

Veterinarian

Dr Meghan graduated from the University of Queensland in 2005 and started her career working in general practice and veterinary livestock consultancy. In 2015, Meghan completed a PhD investigating the epidemiology and pathological agents involved in the bovine respiratory disease complex in feedlot cattle and returned to her family’s property in Childers. Meghan joined the Vet Cross team in early 2020 after returning to general practice.

Meghan is an Australian Cattle Vets accredited Bull tester, holds PennHip certification, is a ParaBoss WEC QA Service Provider and is an Accredited Veterinarian with Animal Health Australia for provision of Market Assurance Programs including GoatMAP, SheepMAP and AlpacaMAP.

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Dr Jacqueline Greiner     BVSc

Veterinarian

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Dr Alanah Evans     BVSc

Veterinarian

Georgia Taylor

Dr Georgia Taylor     BVSc

Veterinarian

Dr Georgia studied at JCU in Townsville and moved to Bundaberg with her sister Kate and their cavoodle Spock.

Lilli Glass

Dr Lilli Glass     BVSc

Veterinarian

Doctor Lilli is from Harvey Bay and studied at JCU in Townsville. Dr Lilli has a keen interest in cattle reproduction and pretty much all aspects of the veterinary industry. In her spare time Lilli loves going to the beach with her beautiful boy Lenny who is pictured here with her.

Amy Cox

Dr Amy Cox     BVSc (Hons)

Veterinarian

Welcome Dr Amy. Dr Amy studied at UQ Gatton and graduated in 2017. Amy started working at a clinic in Maryborough before moving here in 2022. Dr Amys special interests are surgery and cattle.

Anna Logan

Anna Logan     QVN (Cert IV)

Senior Nurse

Anna has been working as a veterinary nurse for the Vet Cross team since 2008 graduating as a qualified veterinary nurse in 2011. Anna is a key team member being actively involved in training junior nurses, 2013 saw Anna take time off to start a family. Anna has a dog called Moose who is a rescue dog.

Amy Jensen

Amy Jensen     QVN (Cert IV)

Senior Nurse / Practice Manager

Amy has been working at Vet Cross since July 2009 and qualified as a Cert IV veterinary nurse in January 2014. Amy is a talented nurse and is often found helping clients on the phone or at the front desk. Amy is an asset to the Vet Cross team. She has a Shih Tzu called Penny and a Labrador called Norman.

Bec Nicholson

Bec Nicholson     QVN (Cert IV)

Senior Nurse

Bec joined the Vet Cross team in 2015. She is most happy nursing for our bovine patients, with cattle medicine and surgery being one of her passions. She also enjoys being able to provide physiotherapy for our small animal orthopaedic patients. Bec has been in the veterinary industry for 9 years, having started as a kennel hand when she was 14 years old. Bec successfully completed her Certificate IV in Veterinary Nursing in 2016. Outside of work she is kept busy with her hobby farm and dogs as well as her 2 sons Charlie and Tommie.

Sarah Manderson

Sarah Manderson     QVN (Cert IV)

Senior Nurse

Sarah is our resident ‘Crazy Cat Lady’. She joined the Vet Cross team in 2016, having been a qualified vet nurse since 2012. Her special interests are radiography, orthopaedic nursing and anything feline, with a special ability to calm even our most anxious kitty patients. Sarah has two extra fluffy, extra lovable cats, Felix and Cooper, and enjoys playing the cello.

Courtney Milne

Courtney Milne     QVN (Cert IV)

Veterinary Nurse

2021 was a busy year for nurse Courtney, she finished her studies and became a qualified veterinary nurse (QVN) and gave birth to her and her partner Mat’s first child Hailey. Baz the cattle dog and Jax the Border Collie are very excited about their new sister.

Brooke Jackson

Brooke Jackson

Veterinary Nurse

Brooke is currently studying her certificate 3 in veterinary nursing is looking forward to starting her cert 4. Brooke has 2 very energetic dogs named Maloo and Maggie.

Dr April Fegredo - BVSc (hons)

Veterinarian

Dr April pursued her studies at UQ in Brisbane, earning her degree in 2023. Her professional interests span a wide spectrum, with a particular focus on behavior, emergency and critical care, neonatal care, soft tissue surgery, and weight loss consultations.
Sheridan Philips

Sheridan Philips

Veterinary Nurse

Sheridan started with Vet Cross in October 2020. Sheridan is born and bred in Bundy, her family have been living in the area for over 130 years. Growing up on a hobby farm Sheridan has had many different pets over the years and enjoys riding the family horses. Sheridan’s most treasured pet is Annabelle the 14 year old Mini Foxy.

Brooke Land

Brooke Land

Veterinary Nurse
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Sarah Boersch     QVN (Cert IV)

Veterinary Nurse
Leah White

Leah White

Nurse

Welcome Nurse Leah. Leah and her Husband Blake moved to Bundaberg from North Brisbane in 2022. Leah has been in the veterinary industry for 2 years and is currently studying her certificate 4 in Veterinary Nursing. She is the loving fur mum of Cinders the Bull Arab X.

Rachel McGregor

Rachel McGregor

Veterinary Nurse
Rachel is a Bundy girl and her family have cattle properties out at Mt Perry. Having grown up with large animals Rachel has a keen interest in them and is looking forward to starting her studies in 2022.
Amanda Polizel QVN

Amanda Polizel

Nurse

Amanda Bickmore

Amanda Bickmore

Marketing / Receptionist

Amanda started her Vet Cross journey in 2013 as a receptionist. However, she soon demonstrated her creative talents and is now primarily our marketing manager. She loves the ability to tell the stories of our furry and feathered friends, as well as being able to inform and educate clients, both old and new.

She has a Labrador named Molly.

Jo Logan

Jo Logan

Gin Gin Receptionist

Jo is the face of Vet Cross Gin Gin. She loves being able to greet our clients and is always up for a chat. She joined us in 2011 and she has become a massive part of the Gin Gin family.

Jo is kept busy by her three big dogs Ruby, Zip and Zeus.

Jackie Sergiacomi

Jackie Sergiacomi

Receptionist

Jackie Joined the Vet Cross team in 2016. Jackie has over 24 years experience and says she couldn’t imagine her life without the excitement and satisfaction that comes from being in the veterinary industry. Jackie’s experience has ranged from a nurse right through to accounts and management. Jackie has been competing in endurance racing for the past 30 years and loves that the sport takes her to beautiful parts of Australia that otherwise she may have missed.

Jess Raines

Chloe Hancock

Receptionist

Chloe joined the Vet Cross team in 2018. Chloe and her now Husband Guy were married in May 2019, they moved here from Ballarat. Chloe has a Foxxy named Maggie and a ginger cat named Milo.

Jade Switzer QVN

Jade Switzer QVN (Cert IV)

Veterinary Nurse

Jade has been with Vet Cross since August 2021 but her career in the veterinary industry started 24 years ago. In that time Jade has worked as an equine nurse and has experience with all large animals. Jade has a particular interest in working with anxious dogs and loves providing physiotherapy to small animals.

Kirsty OG

Kirsty Jansen

Receptionist

Kirsty splits her time between our Bundaberg and Bargara clinics. At home, she’s the proud companion of Nudge, a delightful character who wasn’t exactly thrilled about the idea of a photoshoot. In her spare time, you’ll find Kirsty behind her hooks, enjoying knitting and crocheting.

Jess OG

Jess Raines

Receptionist

Before joining us, Jess embarked on an adventurous journey, exploring every nook and cranny of Australia for a whole year. On top of her wanderlust, Jess proudly calls herself the parent of a charming cockatiel named Monty. In addition to her love for travel and animals, Jess is a keen runner and trains most days.
Tammie 2

Tammie

Melbourne

Tammie joined Vet Cross in 2022, bringing with her a rich farming background. Over the years, she has cared for horses, cattle, and pigs. Currently, Tammie is the proud owner of two horses, Mia and Nikki, as well as two dogs, Gordo and Ruby. On weekends, she enjoys taking joy rides on her Vulcan 650 Cruiser.
Tim Hill

Dr Tim Hill     BVSc MACVS

Practice Principal

Tim graduated from University of Queensland in 1993 and, because of his interest in soft tissue and orthopaedic surgery, gained Membership of Australian College of Veterinary Scientists in Small Animal Surgery in 2006.

Tim completed the PennHip certification in 2009 enabling accurate assessment and evaluation of hip screening, he also has a diploma in animal ophthalmology. Tim travelled throughout Australia and the United Kingdom and gained extensive experience in mixed and dairy practices.

07 4151 5044